A complete guide to deformed diamonds: Comparison of popular fancy cuts and how to choose without regrets
Complete guide to deformed diamonds
Comparison of popular fancy cuts and how to choose without regrets
Oval pear shape cushion emerald──
We will thoroughly explain how to find the one stone that suits you from a professional perspective.
✦ Thorough comparison of 4 major cuts ✦ Regret pattern explanation ✦ Easy diagnosis of the shape that suits you
An increasing number of people are attracted to deformed diamonds (fancy cut) other than round brilliants as candidates for engagement rings and reward jewelry. However, each type of cut has completely different shine, appearance, and precautions. In order to avoid regrets such as ``It wasn't the shine I expected'' or ``It didn't suit me'', in this article we have compiled all the information you need to know before purchasing, from the characteristics of the four major fancy cuts, how to choose one, and a diagnosis of the shape that suits you.
Conclusion of this article
All deformed diamonds have their own unique characteristics, and some cuts, such as the oval, have grown to have a market share of around 25%. The era of "choosing just one round" is over, and it's time to choose the shape that suits your hands, style, and values. However, there are "pitfalls" for each cut, so correct knowledge is essential.
What is a deformed diamond? A simple explanation of the features and charms
"Deformed diamond" is a general term for diamonds that are cut in shapes other than the most common round (round brilliant cut). in the industry"Fancy shape"Ya"Fancy cut"It is called.
Fundamental difference from round
| Comparison items | round brilliant | fancy cut |
|---|---|---|
| shape | Perfect circle | A wide variety of shapes such as oval, teardrop, square, etc. |
| Shine properties | Uniform and strong light diffusion (brilliance) | Unique light expressions that vary depending on the shape |
| Cut evaluation criteria | GIA rated Excellent to Poor | There are no standardized grades. |
| price | Highest with same specs | round ratio About 15-35% cheaper |
| market share | Approximately 40-50% | Approximately 50-60% in total (expanding in recent years) |
*The main reason for the price advantage of fancy cuts is that they have a high cutting yield from rough stones (less loss). It doesn't mean the quality is inferior.
There are three main reasons why fancy cuts are attracting attention.
- Advantage of apparent size---Many fancy cuts have a larger surface area than rounds, making them appear larger for the same carat weight.
- Individuality and freedom of design──The shape itself has its own personality, expanding the variety of ring designs.
- cost performance──You can get it cheaper than rounds of the same quality, so you can aim for higher specs within your budget.
List and comparison of popular deformed diamonds [Quick reference table]
Differences between oval, pear, cushion, and emerald
| Cut name | shape image | Characteristics of shine | impression | Points to note |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| oval | oval | Strong shine almost round | modern elegant | bowtie effect |
| pear shape | Teardrop | Unique sparkle with sharp tips | unique/feminine | Symmetry and tip protection |
| cushion | Square to rectangle with rounded corners | Soft rainbow-colored light produced by wide facets | classic vintage | The shine changes dramatically depending on the cut style. |
| emerald | Rectangle (step cut) | A deep mirror-like flash (Hall of Mirrors) | Intellectual, minimalist, luxurious | Inclusions and colors are easily noticeable |
Differences in appearance, shine, and price
✨ Brightness strength (brilliance) comparison
*Numbers are relative comparisons based on GIA's brilliance factor (Round Excellent cut = 100)
💰 Price level equivalent to 1ct・G・VS1 (round = 100)
*Estimated based on market price. It varies depending on the season, production area, fluorescence, etc.
Which cut is right for you?
People who fit oval
✔ I want to look big
✔ I'm concerned that my fingers look short and thick.
✔ I want something modern that isn't too traditional.
People with pear shape
✔ I don't want to share with other people
✔ I like feminine and unique designs
✔ I want to show off my fingertips
People who are suitable for cushions
✔ I like vintage classics
✔ I prefer soft shine to glare
✔ I'm also interested in colored diamonds.
People who match emeralds
✔ I like simple & minimalistic
✔ I want to prioritize “quality”
✔ Attracted by the transparency of stone
Characteristics of oval cut diamonds and how to choose them
Advantages of oval cut (makes your fingers look bigger/longer)
◎ Benefits
- From a round of the same caratApproximately 10-15% widerface up area
- The vertical line of the ovalMake your fingers longer and slimmershow
- Because of the brilliant cut, which is almost round.Strong shine
- in round ratio25-30% cheaperThere are many cases
- Popular with overseas celebrities,Trendy feelingThere is
Disadvantages of oval cut (difference in shine/quality)
✖ Disadvantages
- Dark band-shaped shadow in the center =bowtie effectis likely to appear
- Because there is no GIA cut gradeDifficult to judge quality
- There is a large variation in the ratio,Individual differencesis intense
- If it is too long vertically it will look unnatural, if it is too short it will look round.
🎀 What is the bowtie effect?
A phenomenon in which a ribbon (bow tie)-like dark shadow appears in the center of the oval.
Hard to see in the photo,Be sure to check the video or the real thing.It is important to do so.
Characteristics of people who regret having an oval cut
⚠ Such people are easy to regret.
- I decided to purchase based on the photo alone.I didn't check the darkness of the bowtie.
- I jumped at it because it was cheap.Too deep and looks smallchose a stone
- without checking the ratio,Longer/rounder than expectedThe stone has arrived
- Choose with the same feeling as a round,Differences in appearance of color and clarityI was confused by
How to choose an oval cut (ratio/balance)
💡 Points to consider when choosing
- Length-width ratio (L/W) is 1.35 to 1.50is classic and popular. A value over 1.50 gives a slim impression, and a value less than 1.30 gives a round impression.
- Depth is 58-62%is the standard. Above 63%, light tends to leak and the appearance tends to be smaller.
- Bowtie is "thin to medium"Aim for. There is no perfect zero, but avoid videos that appear completely dark in the center.
- Colors are G~H and above、Clarity is VS2 or higherI feel safe. The trick is to choose a size one step higher than a round oval, as color tends to accumulate on the edges.
📏 Differences in appearance due to oval length-width ratio (L/W)
1.20
Chubby
1.40
★ Popular
1.55
slim
1.70
quite elongated
Characteristics of pear-shaped diamonds and how to choose them
Advantages of pear shape (individuality/design)
◎ Benefits
- Unique teardrop shapeIt is difficult to overlap with other people.
- Point the tip toward your fingertipsfingers look long
- Looks great as a pendant or earrings,Highly versatile jewelry
- Because it is long in the vertical direction, even with the same carat weightHas a strong presence
Disadvantages of pear shape (direction/balance)
✖ Disadvantages
- SymmetryThe quality of the product is directly related to its appearance.
- Same as ovalbowtie effectis likely to appear
- Tip (point) easily breaksprotection settingsis required
- The impression changes depending on the direction you wear it (upward/downward/sideways).Difficult to choose design
Characteristics of people who regret having a pear shape
⚠ Such people are easy to regret.
- Choose a stone with slightly asymmetrical left and right curves,I noticed it every time I wore it
- Choose a design with exposed tips,I hit it and chipped it
- I didn't imagine the direction of the ring (upward/downward) in advance.
- Unique to pear shapepool of color(Tip and round side)
How to choose a pair shape (symmetrical/proportion)
💡 Points to consider when choosing
- L/W ratio is 1.45~1.75is a popular band. Around 1.50 is well-balanced, and over 1.70 gives a strong sense of drop.
- Symmetryis the most important. Be sure to check the image from the front to make sure that the left and right curves from the tip to the round side are aligned.
- V-shaped prong at the tipChoose a design that is protected by a bezel setting.
- Color is G or higherRecommended. Color tends to accumulate on the tip, and if it is below H, there may be cases where you are concerned about yellowing.
- Wings (the most swollen parts on the left and right)The impression changes depending on whether it is rounded or angular. Check the actual image.
🔍 Pear shape symmetry check
Be sure to check that the left and right curves are aligned with the center line.
If the gap is less than 0.5mm, it is almost invisible to the naked eye, but a large gap will be noticeable when wearing.
Characteristics of cushion cut diamonds and how to choose them
Advantages of cushion cut (soft shine/classic)
◎ Benefits
- rounded cornerssoft impressionSo, it fits easily in your hand.
- Created by wide facetsRainbow colored fire (dispersed light)is beautiful
- vintage antiqueExcellent compatibility with taste
- Fancy colored diamonds (yellow, pink, etc.)The depth of color stands out
- in round ratio30-35% cheaperoften
Disadvantages of cushion cut (looks old/individual differences)
✖ Disadvantages
- compared to the roundBrilliance (white shine) is slightly modest
- The boundary between “classic” and “old-fashioned”Depends on the design
- cut style(Chunky/Crushed Ice/Modified) has completely different shine
- There is a wide range of ratios, from square to rectangular.Lack of uniformity in appearance
🔲 Three cushion cut styles
| style | Characteristics of facets | ShiningHow to do it | impression |
|---|---|---|---|
| chunky (Chunky) |
Regularly arranged large facets | large flash of light (broad flash) | Classic/heavy feel |
| crushed ice (Crushed Ice) |
Random small facets | Sparkling like crushed ice | Gorgeous/Modern |
| modified brilliant |
Brilliant cut variant | Intermediate shine above | Balanced type |
*If the GIA certificate says "Cushion Modified Brilliant", it cannot be determined whether it is chunky or crushed ice. Be sure to check the actual video.
Characteristics of people who regret having a cushion cut
⚠ Such people are easy to regret.
- I chose "crushed ice" and had high expectations.big flash of brightnesswas not obtained
- I intended to choose a ratio close to a square, butThe actual product is slightly rectangular.I had a different impression
- I was looking for a vintage feel,The setting is too moderninconsistently
- Choose a stone with deep depth,Smaller than a round of the same caratI saw it
How to choose a cushion cut (cut style/transparency)
💡 Points to consider when choosing
- Decide on your cutting style first. If you like big flashes, choose Chunky, and if you like gorgeous sparkles, choose Crushed Ice.
- L/W ratio is 1.00 to 1.05 for square people、1.15-1.30 for rectangular typesis the standard.
- Depth is 61-67%as a guideline. 68% or more is the risk of becoming smaller in appearance.
- Clarity is VS2 or higher. Due to the wide facets, inclusions may be visible to the naked eye in SI1.
- Color is H or higher. However, if it is a yellow gold base, even I to J will blend in warmly.
Characteristics of emerald cut diamonds and how to choose them
Advantages of emerald cut (luxury and transparency)
◎ Benefits
- Unique to step cuts"Hall of Mirrors" effectA deep flash like a mirror
- Less flashyintellectual and elegant brilliance
- The more transparent the stoneTransparent like waterstands out
- rectangular silhouetteslim fingersshow to
- art decoExcellent compatibility with the style design
Disadvantages of emerald cut (less shine/inclusions stand out)
✖ Disadvantages
- compared to brilliant cutSparkle is modest
- Because the facets are large and flatInclusions are very noticeable
- similarlyThe color (yellowish) is also easy to see.
- I need high clarity and high color.Difficult to reduce costs
- It is easy to differentiate tastes,Some people find it "plain"
🔬 How clarity appears in emerald cuts
| clarity | How it looks in the round | How it looks in emerald | Judgment |
|---|---|---|---|
| VVS1～VVS2 | completely invisible to the naked eye | completely invisible to the naked eye | ◎ Peace of mind |
| VS1 | invisible to the naked eye | almost invisible | ◎ Recommended |
| VS2 | invisible to the naked eye | Depending on the location, it may be visible | △Confirmation required |
| SI1 | almost invisible | It seems very likely | ✖ Not recommended |
| SI2 or less | sometimes you can see | looks certain | ✖ avoid |
*For emerald cuts, the top priority is to keep the eye clean (looks unblemished to the naked eye). VS1 or higher is strongly recommended.
Characteristics of people who regret having an emerald cut
⚠ Such people are easy to regret.
- brilliant cutImage of sparkling shinewas doing
- to reduce costsClarity below SI1Select to make the inclusions fully visible.
- Choose color H or below,A yellowish tinge was noticeable on the large facets.
- I chose a stone that has a "window" (the part where the center of the stone doesn't shine through).
How to choose an emerald cut (focusing on clarity)
💡 Points to consider when choosing
- Clarity is VS1 or higheris the golden rule. The beauty of an emerald cut lies in its "transparency."
- Color is G or higher(For platinum units). If it is a yellow gold stand, H to I is acceptable.
- L/W ratio is 1.30~1.50is popular. 1.40 is the most classic balance.
- Table area is 60-69%is the standard. If it is too wide, the window will easily pop out.
- Concentrate budget on “color and clarity” of the 4CsThis is the correct way to cut emeralds.
D～F
colorless
colorless
G
★Recommended
★Recommended
H
YG stand OK
YG stand OK
I～J
Caution
Caution
K or less
Not recommended
Not recommended
Recommended color grade range for emerald cut (for platinum/white gold)
Common regrets and failures with deformed diamonds
Cases where the shine feels weak
Fancy cuts have different ``quality'' of shine depending on their shape. When I imagine round brilliant uniform sparkles, I especially like emeralds and cushions (crushed ice)."It's not as bright as I expected."I tend to feel that way.
| cause | Measures |
|---|---|
| The cut is too deep and light leaks | Be sure to check the Depth value. Is it within the recommended range for each cut? |
| The table is too wide so I turned it into a window | Check if the table ratio is within the recommended range |
| The cut doesn't match the type of shine you're looking for in the first place. | Before purchasing, decide which one you prefer: “Brilliance” vs. “Fire” vs. “Mirror Flash” |
Patterns of choosing based on low price and regretting it
Fancy cuts are cheaper than rounds, soToo low quality in pursuit of “cheaper”Failures occur frequently.
- ❌ After lowering the clarity to SI2,Emerald cut reveals inclusions
- ❌ If you choose color J or below,The yellow color stands out on the platinum stand.
- ❌ I chose "cheap 1ct", but it was deep,Appears to be equivalent to 0.8ctIt just looked like
→ Decide in advance what you will tolerate if it upsets the balance of the 4Cs.This is the key to avoiding failure.
Reasons why I feel it doesn't suit me
In many cases, the reason why you feel that you don't look good on yourself isMismatch between stone shape and finger/hand characteristicsIt is.
| Finger characteristics | Easy-to-fit shape | Shapes that require attention |
|---|---|---|
| Thin/long fingers | Goes with almost anything | Square cushion (your fingers may be too delicate and float) |
| Thick/short fingers | Oval pear shape (vertical elongation) | Square cushion/square emerald (width is emphasized) |
| joints are large | Make a statement with a large carat count | If you choose a smaller stone, only the joints will stand out. |
| large hands | Emerald rectangular cushion | Small round type (difficult to balance) |
Which diamond shape suits you? Easy diagnosis
Recommended cuts by finger length and thickness
Thin fingers × long fingers
A "versatile type" that suits any shape. You can also add a sense of volume with a square style.
All cuts OK / Personalize with cushionsThick fingers x short
The vertically long shape makes your fingers look neat.
Oval/pear shapeThin fingers × short fingers
Take advantage of the delicacy with stones that are not too large
Oval / small emeraldThick and long fingers
A cut with a strong presence and a dignified look. Also looks great with wide shapes
emerald / cushionRecommended by fashion/atmosphere
elegant conservative
oval / emerald
Mode/Individualism
Pear shape / emerald
natural vintage style
cushion
romantic feminine
Pear shape/oval
For those who want to choose a design that does not overlap with others
Looking at market share,Pear shape and emerald cut total about 10-13%and a minority. In particular, many people say that ``I almost never see people wearing them,'' and the pear shape is by far the least comfortable to wear.
If you want to make a further difference,East-west (landscape) settingoval andbezel settingEven if the shape is the same, there are ways to make it unique by changing the direction of the design and the frame, such as the emerald cut.
How to choose a deformed diamond that you won't regret
Cut balance (the most important point)
Fancy cuts do not have GIA's "Excellent to Poor" cut grade. That's why,Ability to judge "cut balance" with one's own eyesis required.
Step 1: Check the length-width ratio (L/W Ratio)
Calculated from the mm value on the certificate of authenticity. Compare the popular range of each cut with your own preferences.
Step 2: Check depth (Depth %)
If it is too deep, light will leak and it will look smaller. Check whether it is within the recommended range for each cut.
Step 3: Check table ratio
If the table is too wide, a "window" (a dark area that shows through) will occur. If it is too narrow, the amount of light taken in will decrease.
Step 4: Watch the movement of light in the video
The best way to check for bow ties, windows, and dead spots is to watch a 360 degree video.
| cut | L/W ratio | Depth | table ratio |
|---|---|---|---|
| oval | 1.35〜1.50 | 58〜62% | 53〜63% |
| pear shape | 1.45〜1.75 | 56〜62% | 53〜63% |
| cushion | 1.00〜1.05 / 1.15〜1.30 | 61〜67% | 56〜68% |
| emerald | 1.30〜1.50 | 60〜67% | 60〜69% |
Concept of color clarity
in fancy cut“Which should I focus on, color or clarity?”is a frequent problem. The conclusion isPriority changes depending on the type of cut。
| cut | What should be prioritized? | reason | Recommended grade |
|---|---|---|---|
| oval | color priority | Color tends to accumulate on the edges | Color G or higher / Clarity VS2 or higher |
| pear shape | color priority | Color is concentrated at the tip | Color G or higher / Clarity VS2 or higher |
| cushion | Slight Clarity Priority | Wide facets make inclusions easy to see | Color H or higher / Clarity VS2 or higher |
| emerald | Clarity first | Inclusions are extremely noticeable due to the step cut. | Color G or higher / Clarity VS1 or higher |
Appearance size (relationship with carat)
Carat number is "weight", not "size". in fancy cutThe shallower the depth, the larger the face-up (area seen from above) of the same carat.It will be.
📐 1ct face-up area comparison
Tips:Estimate the area from the "length x width (mm)" on the certificate and compare it with your expected size. It is important not to judge only by the value of "◯◯ct".
Frequently asked questions about deformed diamonds
Why are fancy cuts cheap?
It's not because the quality is low. Round brilliant requires a lot of cutting from the rough stone (yield approximately 40%), and the price is higher due to the greater loss. Fancy cuts make the best use of the shape of the rough stone and have a high yield (50-60%), so they are generally 15-35% cheaper for the same quality. Another factor behind the price difference is that market demand for rounds is overwhelmingly high.
Is it suitable for an engagement ring?
Of course it's suitable. In recent years, there is data that approximately 30-40% of engagement rings choose fancy cuts, so it is actually a trendy choice. Also, if you are considering everyday use, we recommend frame designs with high protection such as V-shaped prongs and bezel settings.
Does the property have value?
As with all diamonds, it is difficult to recover 100% of the purchase price at resale. Comparing among them,Round brilliants are the easiest to resell.(Aim for a return of 50-60% of the purchase price), and for fancy cuts it is around 40-50%. However, there is a certain resale market even for fancy cuts if they are 1ct or more, high grade, and have a GIA appraisal. It is reasonable to go for a round cut if you want to prioritize your asset value, and a fancy cut if you prioritize beauty for yourself + moderate asset value.
On that point, Selby's selling price (excluding tax) is90% purchaseSince we guarantee this, we also provide full support for resale.
What is the difference from round brilliant?
The biggest difference is① Presence or absence of cut gradeand②Characteristics of brillianceIt is. Rounds are given a cut grade of "Excellent to Poor" by GIA, but fancy cuts do not have this standard. Therefore, when it comes to fancy cuts, you need to judge the quality based on your own eyes and a reliable shop. When it comes to shine, the round aims to maximize even brilliance and fire, while the fancy cut offers a unique glow that varies from shape to shape.
Deformed diamonds are recommended for the following people:
people who value individuality
While round brilliants are the norm, choosing a fancy cut in itself sends a strong message that you have your own style. In particular, the pear shape and emerald cut are rarely worn by many people, giving them a one-of-a-kind presence.
People who value cost performance
The big appeal of fancy cuts is that you can aim for higher-grade specs (larger carat weight, higher color clarity) for the same budget. Oval cuts in particular have a larger appearance and are the most well-balanced cut in terms of cost performance.
People who want to choose a design that doesn't overlap with others
In addition to choosing the shape, you can create even more originality by changing the orientation and combination of settings. Oval in an east-west setting, emerald in a bezel setting, pear drop shape - find the one that's unique to you.
- Fancy cuts are not inferior in quality, but are cheaper because there is less loss of the rough stone.
- Each cut has a different quality of shine. Sort out the brilliance you want first
- Since there is no GIA cut grade, it is necessary to check the ratio, depth, and video.
- Color and clarity priorities change depending on the type of cut.
- If you are unsure, narrow down your choices to two based on the shape of your fingers and the atmosphere you like, and then compare them with the actual products.